Winter Mountaineering - Ben Nevis & Glen Coe

OVERVIEW

This course is designed to help you transition from winter hillwalking into steeper, more technical mountaineering terrain and winter climbing routes, in the dramatic landscapes of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe.

​We’ll introduce key techniques such as using a rope for security on exposed ground, using snow anchors, and moving efficiently on climbing routes and graded mountaineering ground.

Expect to tackle real winter objectives - gully climbs, mountaineering ridges, and mixed terrain - developing sound judgement and movement techniques along the way.

By the end of the course, you'll be better equipped to approach technical winter ground with greater confidence, independence, and awareness of the challenges involved.

COURSE OUTLINE

Introduction to Steeper Winter Terrain:

Bridge the gap between winter hillwalking and more technical winter mountaineering and climbing. You’ll gain an understanding of what graded winter ground involves, from open snow slopes to steeper gullies and mountain ridges, along with how to assess conditions, avalanche risk, and route suitability.

Movement Skills on Snow, Ice & Mixed Ground:

Strong movement is essential for both climbing and mountaineering. We’ll cover how to move efficiently with crampons and ice axe on snow, ice, rock, and mixed terrain. You’ll develop good footwork, stability, and confidence on steep approaches, ridges, and climbable features.

Rope-work for Winter Climbing & Mountaineering:

As the terrain becomes more technical, we introduce the rope as a tool for safety and efficiency. You'll learn how to tie in, use belays, and move as a roped team. We’ll explore the climbing system and rope-work used in both mountaineering and easier graded climbs (Grade I–II).

Snow Anchors and Basic Protection:

You’ll gain experience building snow anchors and using nuts, cams and hexes in winter conditions, looking at the skills used in winter climbing for building belays and protecting steeper ground.

Route Planning and Judgement:

We’ll work through how to read forecasts, avalanche reports, and maps to plan safe winter climbing and mountaineering days. Emphasis is placed on decision-making in a constantly changing mountain environment.

Guided Climb or Mountaineering Journey (Day 2):

The second day is your opportunity to apply everything on a real journey or climb. Depending on weather, conditions, and experience, we may aim for a classic Grade I–II winter mountaineering or climbing route, such as:
-Curved Ridge
-Ledge Route
-Number Two Gully
-Aonach Eagach
-Sron na Lairig
You’ll be involved in route choice, preparation, and execution - with your instructor supporting you through steeper sections, rope-work, and decision-making along the way.
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