Winter Mountaineering: The Cairngorms

OVERVIEW

This course is designed to help you transition from winter hillwalking into steeper, more technical mountaineering terrain and climbing winter routes.

​We’ll introduce key techniques such as using a rope for security on exposed ground, using snow anchors, and moving efficiently on climbing routes and graded mountaineering ground.

We aim to get hands-on with real mountaineering challenges - whether ascending gullies, tackling rocky ridges, or navigating complex mixed ground. We will progress your skills towards using two aces to tackle steeper climbs.

​By the end of the course, you'll have a clearer understanding of how to approach technical winter ground with greater independence, confidence, and awareness.

COURSE OUTLINE

Introduction to Steeper Winter Terrain:

Bridge the gap between winter hillwalking and more technical winter mountaineering and climbing. You’ll gain an understanding of what graded winter ground involves, from open snow slopes to steeper gullies and mixed ridges, along with how to assess conditions, avalanche risk, and route suitability.

Movement Skills on Snow, Ice & Mixed Ground:

Strong movement is essential for both climbing and mountaineering. We’ll cover how to move efficiently with crampons and ice axe on snow, ice, rock, and mixed terrain. You’ll develop good footwork, stability, and confidence on steep approaches, ridges, and climbable features.

Ropework for Winter Climbing & Mountaineering:

As the terrain becomes more technical, we introduce the rope as a tool for safety and efficiency. You'll learn how to tie in, use belays, and move as a roped team. We’ll explore the climbing system and rope-work used in both mountaineering and easier graded climbs (Grade I–II).

Snow Anchors and Basic Protection:

You’ll gain experience building snow anchors and using nuts, cams and hexes in winter conditions, looking at the skills used in winter climbing for building belays and protecting steeper ground.

Route Planning and Judgement:

We’ll work through how to read forecasts, avalanche reports, and maps to plan safe winter climbing and mountaineering days. Emphasis is placed on decision-making in a constantly changing mountain environment.

Guided Winter Climbing & Mountaineering:

The second day is your opportunity to apply everything on a real journey or climb. Depending on weather, conditions, and experience, we may aim for a classic Grade I–II winter mountaineering or climbing route, such as:
-Fiacaill Ridge
-Jacob’s Ladder
-The Runnel
-Aladdin’s Couloir
You’ll be involved in route choice, preparation, and execution - with your instructor supporting you through steeper sections, rope-work, and decision-making along the way.

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