Winter Climbing: Intro - The Cairngorms

OVERVIEW

This 2-day course is designed for those looking to progress from basic winter mountaineering into more technical winter climbing and experience steeper, more sustained graded winter climbs. Based in the Cairngorms, it provides the ideal environment to develop and refine your skills on classic Grade II–IV snow, ice, and mixed routes.

You’ll climb progressively harder routes under guidance, using realistic objectives to consolidating our advanced mountaineering techniques to access and descend the venues. Expect a mix of steep gullies, ice climbs and mixed routes.

By the end of the course, you'll have the confidence, skills, and understanding to begin planning and tackling Grade II–IV winter climbs.
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COURSE OUTLINE

Gear & Equipment for Technical Winter Climbing:
We’ll begin by ensuring you’re confident with the kit required for winter climbing. You'll learn how to choose appropriate boots, fit C2/C3 crampons correctly, and use winter-specific tools like technical axes. We’ll also cover strategies for organising gear, managing gloves and goggles, and keeping efficient in harsh mountain conditions.

Snow & Ice Climbing Techniques:

You’ll build efficient movement skills for tackling steep snow, icy slopes, and mixed terrain. We'll refine your crampon technique - from flat-footing to front pointing - and develop confidence using your axes for swinging, plunging, hooking, and torquing. Expect plenty of time on 'real terrain', learning to move with control and efficiency.

Winter Rope-work & Belaying:

Climbing in winter requires good rope-work and secure belays. We’ll cover techniques for building anchors using buried axes, snow bollards, bucket seats, and solid rock placements and ice screws. You'll practice pitching on snow and mixed ground, placing protection like screws, nuts, hexes and cams, and managing ropes effectively while climbing.

‘Winterising’ Your Climbing Knowledge:

Learn how traditional climbing tactics are adapted for the winter environment. We’ll cover how your climbing rack may differ, which gear is most effective, and how to keep things moving smoothly. We’ll work on efficient transitions, gear handling with gloves, and decision-making in winter.

Route Planning & Avalanche Awareness:

Understanding the snowpack and avalanche risk is vital. You’ll learn how to interpret forecasts, identify potential avalanche terrain, and make informed decisions on safe route choice. We’ll introduce practical strategies for moving through avalanche-prone areas and how to assess snow conditions as part of your daily planning.

Navigation Essentials in Winter:

Navigation becomes much more challenging when the landscape is snow-covered and visibility is poor. We’ll develop your map and compass skills, learn to identify safe line features in winter conditions, and practice strategies for navigation in whiteouts and complex terrain.

Progressive Climbing Objectives:

Each day will involve climbing routes that build on your skills, confidence, and technical understanding. Possible objectives include Hidden Chimney, Ewan Buttress, Milky Way, Fingers Ridge, The Seam, Invernookie and Spiral Gully (and more) - depending on weather, snow conditions, and group experience. You'll have the chance to apply what you've learned on real, graded winter climbs (Grades II–IV).